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Observatory |
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Observatory |
(Top and middle: Hanle Observatory. Above: Hanle Monastery)
On the 4th day of their Jeep tour, Douglas, breaking the silence of the great flat land of Chang Thang announced, "I'm gonna visit Mount Saraswati. This is some place. Rami Chan, you are coming with me for an incredible surprise."
"Mount Saraswati? Where and for what?" asked Rami
"You never heard of The Mount Saraswati? Henle? IAO in Chang Thang?"Douglas was surprised
"No."
"Well, let me tell you..."
They were in a mountain ringed beautiful valley and Rami Chan could see at a distance the world's mightiest ranges of The Himalayas and The Karakorum. The gleaming golden peaks were fading with the approaching dusk, the darkness was not long behind. Then suddenly there were a flicker of light, a possible reflection of a metal sheet from the mountains to their left. Douglas asked the driver to stop the Jeep. Peering through his binocular-
he saw him again, the byke man. The guy was at the hotel at Leh, at monastery and then at Khardung La pass and now here. Shit!
Looking at the frowning Douglas, Rami Chan asked, "what's the matter, Douglas?"
"Nothing serious. But we have to be cautious. We have a company. Someone is following us", replied Douglas nudging the driver to continue
"Why the hell ...should we be followed...?"
Douglas shrugged.
Then he talked about "Hanle"....
"The Department of Science and Technology Govt. of India in association with the Indian Institute of Astrophysics and The University of Washington, St. Louis, USA established an astronomical observatory at the most incredible ChanhThang, Ladakh at the height of 15,000 ft which is the driest and the calmest place on the earth with the rarefied air and hardly any population. This became the world's highest observatory! It's atop Mount Saraswati in the vast Nilamkhul plain near Hanle village. This was India's stellar acquisition, making every Indian proud! Soon it became a hot bed for world's top astronomers. The work and research was in the fields of Astronomy and Astrophysics and was related to planetary and stellar, star clusters, galaxies, explosions in the space novae and supernovae, radio signals and many other areas not known to us.
However, the location was in a highly sensitive area. Close to China border.!"
Rami Chan was speechless. A wave of shame passing over him of not being aware of the great achievements his country is making in the different fields!
"Phut." There was a sudden sound of a mild explosion. The Jeep stopped. Rami looked around. It was dark now. A deadly cold silence. The driver examined the engine and tried to start again. "Sorry sir, we can't go further. Very little oxygen. the gas won't burn"
They had no choice but to walk. Luckily the gate of the observatory was not far away. After walking 200 yards, suddenly the observatory loomed in front of them at the top of the hill-"Mount Saraswati". My goodness! What a sight in the night- a rare combination of mystery and the thrill, thought Rami Chan! It had a mesmerizing effect on him.
Unfortunately, the security at the gate politely refused entry in spite of showing all the relevant papers and identities, as they were late. Rami Chan swore under his breath. Reluctantly the group with a heavy heart turned back and headed towards Leh- a 10 hours journey.
Douglas patted on Rami Chan's back and said consoling him, "Don't worry Rami. The observatory has a telescope and all other technical equipments and you would be surprised to know that it is controlled remotely by the main center 3500 km away at near Bangalore. This observatory has a communication link with Indian satellite INSAT".
Now, now, this was a bigger surprise for Rami Chan!
No regrets, thought Rami. This was the most adventurous journey and a lifetime unforgettable experience. He had fallen in love with Ladakh. His ebullient mood returned.
The byke man had disappeared.
Probably a security man. Who cares?
"Plop." Rami Chan slipped the last of ice cube in the whiskey. It was passed 2AM and the library room of Rami Chan's Kothi (bungalow) in Block 29, Saket, New Delhi was cold and smoky. He ended his incredible story of Ladakh and "The eye in the sky" with the final departing words.
"Kiran, I missed the other regions of Ldakh-Nubra valley, Kargil, Zanskar, Dhahanu and the some parts of Leh. Let's go in next July or September. Will you come?"
I was already in Ladakh. I just nodded.
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