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Kasol in Day |
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Kasol in Night |
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Beautiful River in Kasol |
I was chilling off at Alpine Guest House at village
Kasol, Kullu, Himachal for the last 3 days and waiting for
Sam and
Sonia to return from the
Kasol-Sar Pass trek.
Tucked between narrow band of reserve forest on one side and the roaring Parvati river on the other, stands the Alpine Guest House. The reserve forest forms the buffer between the Bhuntar-Manikaran road along which the Kasol village is located.Thus, the guest house is isolated from the traffic and the hustle-bustle of the village.
Slowly the dusk was settling in the valley. I came out into the open space. The vast green open space adjoining the river overlooked the perennial snow clad peaks where one can spend hours enjoying the scenic beauty, an ideal place for a person like me, a metro-city dweller to meditate and unwind.
I was lost in the unfolding awesome beauty of nature when I heard the footsteps behind me. I turned my head to see her. It was as if a lioness was majestically approaching you. Yes, she was! Sonia, who can stir even a dead man with a desire to have her! She smiled and without a word slid her hand under my arm and took me towards my room.
As we were settling down in the room, Sam entered. He was a tall man like Sonia with a rugged face, sharp features and searching eyes. He had in his hand a bottle of Signature whiskey and a can of Kingfisher beer, perhaps for Sonia.
Sam was my neighbor in Mumbai and Sonia was his girl friend. Both had come to me with this incredible plan to go for the world's finest Kasol-Sar Pass trek and they wanted me to accompany them till Kasol knowing well that though my age and health will not permit me to undertake this trek, I will jump at their suggestion due to my deep love for Himachal and especially for Kasol.Both had come to Kasol 10 days back for this God's glorious created trek and I came here 3 days back. It took me about 2 hours from Kullu to Kasol passing the densely forested scenic Parvati Valley. The road had patches of plum, apricot and peach orchards and terraced gardens right on its either side. The prominent villages I crossed were Sarsari, Shaat and Jari. The Kasol village was 11 kms from Jari.
This was my second visit to Kasol and I always find it just stunning! Kasol (5000 ft above MSL) is a quiet and peaceful village situated 06 kms short of Manikaran in the Parvati valley. It is surrounded by mountain ranges whose higher reaches are covered with dense growth of coniferous forest with trees like pine, blue pine, fir and Deodar whose resins exude very pleasant aroma that lingers in the unpolluted cool mountain air. At the lower slopes one will find tress like poplars and silver oaks.
European inhabitants
A picturesque village, a reminder of a European or a Israeli hamlet, many of them (more than 50% of the village population) making the village as their permanent home. The village has the traditional wooden houses having slanted roofs of black slates. The place is dotted with small orchards of apple, plum, peaches, pears, apricot and almonds. There is greenery everywhere with shrubs of brier roses, number of varieties of fern and patches of wild strawberry.
A mountain stream called Grahan Nallah divides the village in two parts namely, Old Kasol and New Kasol. Through this small stream ice-cold, crystal clear water cascades down and flows into the Parvati River. Comparatively, Parvati River is more torrent and noisily roaring because of its inherent relatively steep gradient and greater mass flow of water.
My daily routine for the last 3 days had been a walk into peace and tranquility. Leaving early, I will feel the morning sun filtering through it’s leaves, the first breeze from the mountains, cool and refreshing air, a smell so good... still lingers in my head.
I will have my breakfast of towelettes and tea at "Lucky Dhaba" next to rushing Parvati river or at "Moon Dance Cafe" with it's old favorite for breakfast and bakery products like fresh bread rolls, chocolate brackets, delicious apple crumble, croissants in many hues and cheesecake. Then will have a lunch at the resort or at "Little Italy" the Italian restaurant and then relax at the river side for rest of the day."So, how was your trek?" I asked looking at Sam and Sonia who had settled with their drinks with peanuts on a plate. "A staircase to heaven!" Replied Sonia. "Yes, uncle Kiran, it was an unforgettable 7 days adventure to heaven!" added Sam. "Really?" I asked. I could feel a sudden craving for wanting to hear every thing! Sam relaxed. Gulped a shot of whiskey and then started talking. Sonia sipping her beer slowly looking at Sam and the at me with her killing eyes.
Now, let me summarize what they told me:
1/ Kasol is one of the best destination for the avid trekkers and backpackers, who loves the sloppy Himalayan mountains, capped with white snow, and the pulsating rhythm of Parvati river, which flows through the heart of Kasol Valley. 2/ Various National level Himalayan Trekking Expeditions like the Surpass trek, Yanker Pass trek, Pin Parbati Pass and the Khirganga trek are organized from a base camp at Kasol. The best is Surpass trek(tough) especially for those who really wants to explore the best scenic view of Himalayan Mountains.
The best way to do is to join the YHAI (Youth Hostal Association of India). As far as the trek is concern , there are many available trekking expedition organized by YHAI. This trek will set you for a lifetime experience into divinity!
3/ SCHEDULE FOR SARPASS TREK
Day 1 : Report at Base Camp (Youth Hostel Kasol) Ht. 6500 ft.
Day 2 : Acclimatization and Orientation
Day 3 : Rock Climbing & Reppelling
Day 4 : Trek to Youth Hostel Grahan– Ht. 7700 ft. (09 kms) 5 hrs.
Day 5 : Trek to Youth Hostel Padri – Ht. 8900 ft. (10 kms) 5 hrs.
Day 6 : Trek to Youth Hostel RatnaPani – Ht. 10700 ft.(07 kms) 5 hrs.
Day 7 : Trek to Youth Hostel Nagaru – Ht. 12500 ft. (09 kms) 4 hrs
Day 8 : Trek to Youth Hostel Biskeri Thatch – Ht. 11000 ft. via Sar Pass (13800 ft.) (09 kms) 7 hrs
Day 9 : Trek to Youth Hostel Bhandak Thatch – Ht. 8000 ft. (10 kms) 6 hrs.Day 10 : Trek up to Barshani Road head, transfer by bus to Manikaran.
Now the trekA serious acclimatization trek like trying out rappelling and more.
Grahan Camp
- Destination: The Grahan Higher Camp at 7700 feet, after a 9 km trek. Passing through Grahan Village, the last inhabited location on the trek route . Day 1 isn't easy as a ‘Day 1' should be, so there will be dropouts after you reach Grahan. Grahan is the last camp that is next to a human habitation, and the village is pretty scenic. Also, it’s the last camp with toilets, so it’s "bye-bye civilization."
Ratnapani camp
- The next camp is Ratapani (10,700 ft)-the 2nd most scenic camp on the whole trek and a a particularly tough climb.
- After Ratapani is when the trek gets really crazy. The 9 km trek to Nagaru (12500 ft) is maybe the most challenging of the lot. The camp is on a top of hill and does little to soothe your nerves.
Sar Pass
- First glimpses of the pass! You have to walk in single file (for ones not used to military parlance, that means single line), with torches in hand. The Pass has to be crossed by around 9 AM, as the snow starts melting, and melting snow is obviously not a good thing. Then through the Sar Pass at 13800 feet. You walk on snow all through the Pass, and before noon, reach the highest point, from where you do a 800-feet snow slide down the mountain. It was one crazy ass slide, but do follow the guide’s instructions…as somersaults, tumbles and subsequent injuries are not unheard of.
Bhandak Thatch Panorama
Bhandak Thatch Camp
- After Nagaru, the trek is mostly downhill a descend to Biskeri Thatch (11000 ft) the same day, and Bhandak Thatch (8000 feet) the next day. Bhandak is the most beautiful camp sites of all, perhaps, the best in the world.
- And after that, you’re back to Base camp Kasol, after 7-9 days of crazy trekking, drinking from glaciers, sleeping in tents, peeing in the outdoors, getting bruised and blistered, sliding down mountains and what not! The moment you reach civilization, that feeling cannot be described! It feels like you’re seeing roads, vehicles, buildings etc for the first time in your life!
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