Starting from Chinnai-Marina Beach Rediscovering Tamil Nadu's scenic coastal highway
I had to go suddenly to
Chennai. It was my friend Gopal's ultimatum!
Chennai (Madras) in the state of Tamil Nadu had always fascinated me. It had been more than a metro town in South India. I remembered every experience of mine since my childhood as we went down the escalator to the arrival hall of
Kamraj domestic terminal of Chennai airport. I felt a surge of adrenaline in my body, an exotic feeling of an unexplained excitement. It had always been like this. The memories and reflections creeping in.... the heat and humidity, the swat trickling down behind your neck after a hot and spicy rice and curry on banana leaf at an "
Army Mess" (nothing to do with the army), off Mount Road. Curious? was it an erotic feeling? I don't know...I felt that way. The wearing of
Mundu (also called
Lungi in north- a long cloth wrapped up around your waist instead a trouser) and then laughing and lifting up Mundu to your knees and tucking up cloth ends around waist for a better ventilation under your legs! Oh, ....the smell of incense and burning of Kapoor( a fragrant stick), the magical sounds of bells and gongs with chanting of hymns in the temples- perhaps the most beautiful ones and ancient in the world! An evening walk on the magnificent Marina Beach...
I got a nudge. I looked at my friend Tommy Singh. The luggage had passed me on the ramp. We both smiled. He knew me so well. Then I was there. We walked out to meet smiling Mr. Gopal, my friend and an ex-colleague from the company I worked earlier. We decided to come to
Chennai on Gopal's invitation pending since long to go on a drive on the most enchanting -
The East Coast Road to the end of the land and India-Kanyakumari, to enjoy the tropical paradise of South India.
The incredible journey
We started next day early in the morning.
For us and also as I came to know later, for
Chennaites, The East Coast Road, is like
Nirvana.
Whether you go Biking or cruising in your car, the thrill is unparalleled.
The East Coast Road, popularly known as
"ECR", stretches along, obviously the East Coast, ie Bay of Bengal, and connects all villages, towns and cities on the East Coast. It runs from Chennai to Kanyakumari, the southern most tip of this country, and is 737 kms long. If you decide to drive all along, if would be a great road trip. If you started driving from Thiruvanmiyur in Chennai, when you reach Mahabalipuram, you would have covered 43 kms, and would have covered 113 kms, if you reached Pondy. The Road connects Chennai to Pondicherry, Cuddalore, Nagapattinam, Tuticorn and Kanyakumari, and runs 737 kms along the coast.
Parts of the road were scenic, with a lovely view of the sea lined with coconut trees, casuarinas trees, fishermen's villages, catamarans neatly arranged along, or just plain beach sand……and nothing else.
No matter what’s on the shore, the drive was great. While we drove we saw the sea coast on the left, it is sometimes, just a few feet away, and at some places, it was about a kilometre away, but, with nothing else in between to hide the view, the view was breathtaking. We were told (we couldn't go further to Pondy) after you cross Pondicherry, as you drive towards Cuddalore and further south, you will be driving with the sea lashing at the road…it is like, Marine drive types….with walls constructed, with road on top of it, and the sea with all its fury, dashes at the road.
If you drive in the night, you find that the road is dotted with reflectors on both the sides and in the middle, it looks superb (we experienced it on our return) .
There many be many such places overseas, but, to have one world class road in Tamil Nadu, India, is a great thing. People who have driven on this one, will surely agree. As the road went through many villages and large number of beach resorts, we crossed the heritage site of
Mahabalipuram.
We were amazed at the several places along the route, drive-in cinema theaters – Prarthana Drive in, Eateries – Basera, Food Village, Buena Vista, virgin beaches and Muthukadu Backwaters, beach resorts – MGM Resort, GRT Temple Bay and then world's one of the best resort-
Taj Fisherman's Cove:
Fisherman's Cove has been a landmark on East Coast road, since 1974. It is a beautiful Taj property, on the beach, with wonderful hotel, several sea facing rooms, large swimming pool, beach side barbecue etc….and
several sea facing cottages, with their own sit outs, hammock, and a private garden. Though their tariffs are on the
higher side, the experience is great Their breakfast buffet is fantastic and is a nice option after watching the sunrise at Mahabalipuram.
Some other awesome places on the way
Dakshinachitra
After covering 25 km from Chennai, we would reach Dakshinachitra, a museum that depicts the art, music, culture and heritage of the South Indian states of Kerala, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu. This museum was established in 1996 by Madras Craft Foundation.
This backwater area is located around 23 km from Adayar and offers adventurous activities like water skiing, speedboat riding, wind surfing and rowing.
Tiger Cave
The Tiger Cave is actually a Hindu temple located near Mahabalipuram in Tamil Nadu. The rock-cut temple dates back to 8th century and was built by the Pallavas. This is one of the ancient caves where you can find the inscriptions and carvings that centuries old.
Alamparai Fort
The Alamparai Fort is in ruins today. The fort is located in Kadappakkam, a village around 50 km from Mahabalipuram.
Cuddalore
Cuddalore is a lovely place located along the coast of Bay of Bengal. Offering spectacular views of nature
Muthupet Lagoon
While travelling through the East Coast Road, the Muthupet Lagoon is located at the southern end of the river delta of Cauvery, on the Bay of Bengal. The mangrove forest here is what makes the place worth a visit
Manora Fort
The Manora Fort is located in Mallipattinam, a coastal village in Thanjavur district of Tamil Nadu. The 8 storeyed hexagonal tower overlooks the Bay of Bengal. It also claims to have an underground passage to Thanjavur which is 65 km away!
Thoothukudi
This famous port town is also called as the 'Pearl Town' as it is popular for pearl diving.
Oh, my goodness! Just beautiful!
By evening we were at Pondicherry.
Pondicherry was a refreshing sight for weary travelers. The streets were familiar to me, laid out in a grid system like a city in Europe. They have lovely municipal gardens to chill out in and there was a botanical gardens.
Restaurants at ECR
- Basera , 146, 2/169 East Coast Road, Vettuvankeni, Chennai, Tel: (044)24492361.Food Village, 1/81 East Road, Injambakkam, Chennai – 41, Tel: (044) 24492692, 24493309.
- Hot Kitchen , 78,79 Injambakkam Village, , Chennai – 41, Tel: (044) 24490730, 24493139
Accommodation
- GRT Temple Bay Beach Resorts, Mamallapuram – 603104, Tel: 04114-242251,242254
- Quality Inn MGM , No. 1/74, New Mamallapuram Road , Muttukkadu – 603112, Tel: 04114-245435 .
- Fisherman's Cove, Covelong Beach , Mamallapuram - 603112 , Tel: 04114-272304-310 . V G P Golden Beach Resort, East Coast Road , Injambakkam, Tel: 044-24491101
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